I knew as soon as I saw this photo I'd missed it. I've been looking at the backs of waves for most of my surfing career and I can tell more about a wave from the back than from the front. This is the Left going all the way through with nobody out.

This is the transition section leading perfectly into the inside, come from behind bowl. Ok, it's a little windy, it's January and we aren't even supposed to have surf let along all the way through days at the Left.

This is the bowl spinning down. If you've been here you know what I'm talking about. If you haven't there's nothing more I can say.

TOUR REPORTS

This is a bit blurry but I'm using cause it invokes a feeling in me and probably anyone else who's set-up the inside bowl and came through from behind. We know who you are, we've heard your hoots all the way back on the boat.

There you are, settled back in the pit, the whole world slows down as the lip pitches out over your head. The opening just out in front of you starts to close down a bit so you pull in and up and try to turn the corner. It's touch and go but your still going for it.

Well? did you make it?

did the lip catch your head and face plant you?

Did it go clean over your head but you bailed just from the energy of the water spinning all around you?

Or did you hang tough and hold your line?

We hope that was you we heard hooting on the inside. It's not cool to claim waves anymore but we'll cut you enough slack for just a little one.

Write me I want to hear from you.