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It's mid-march and the Southern Ocean is alive and well. Last week we had six visiting pros from Costa Rica. When there are six pros in the water and two cameramen on the beach it's a good idea to find another peak. We surfed a different beach last week and got some really good waves. A few days ago I headed out alone in my outrigger canoe mid-day and caught the beach-break really good and all alone. |
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Here's a great shot of me caught inside on a really good set. Peeling both ways and all I could do was watch. Trust me, I was loving life. I tried to anchor the canoe right in the middle of the peak. You can see below I did a pretty good job of it. This beach-break is amazingly consistent.
Tony calls this the money shot. I got chandeliered and blinded put made it a bit further. Modesty prevents me from showing the rest of the sequence. (If I would have made it this web page would be a foot longer.) <grin>
I really like surfing out of the canoe. Getting there is half the fun. The ride home is a great time to just get a groove on.
Returning home to hot backyard-made pizza in our new brick oven
Ahhh... yes. good grinds good friends and cold beer. Please do stay in touch. love to hear form y'all. Dale D
some extra reading
Sailing in Nicaragua during the contra war
Interested is a "walk to surf" property?
PHOTOS OF THE WEEK
10/23